The buzzer goes, the gates creak open and you rush (no matter how quiet it is, you rush…) down the gangplank. There’s a high-pitched squeal as the ferry rubs against the dock. Ropes tighten and groan. Once on board you step back fifty years: all rivets and polished wood. There’s something undefinable in the air: salt and…something else. You pull the row of seats to face either forward or back. Kowloon, or the Island? You move off and it’s surprisingly quite – afloat in the middle of the city with only the chug of the engine and the slapping waves. And there, in among the photo-snapping tourists, is a business man, briefcase in hand, and there – a maid with bags of shopping. Because this boat isn’t just a relic, an ‘old Hongkong theme ride’, it’s still, for many, the best five minutes to be had in the whole city.